A selection of places and things to do
From the Italian border to Lac de Serre-Ponçon, the Ubaye valley reveals itself in all its diversity. Our guiding thread: the river itself, which the Oueds & Rios team has been helping guests discover for over thirty years.
Along its full length, the valley has many facets to explore — alpine landscapes, a Mexican heritage, Italian gastronomy within reach of a mountain pass, exceptional whitewater. This article is a gourmet stroll: a selection of places and providers, among many others, that shape the very particular identity of this Alpes-de-Haute-Provence valley (04).
We'll share our favourite spots and encounters along the river. Try them and enjoy!
Una piccola fuga in Italia — Cuneo and the Stura
Cuneo, the Piedmontese beauty
Flip over to the other side of the Col de Larche. Head to Cuneo, the beautiful Piedmontese city. The many bar-pasticceria will delight you at aperitivo time — a tradition born in northern Italy: the famous Spritz accompanied by a variety of nibbles. A gourmet tour is a must:
- Cuneo's covered market with producers from the mountains and valleys of Piedmont — Mercato Coperto di Piazza Seminario, Via Amedeo Rossi.
- The Pasticceria Café Arione — Piazza Galimberti: a 1930s décor listed as a historic Italian landmark.
- For ice cream, Gelato Crea.
For a stop to eat outside the city, a few addresses on the road:
- Trattoria Da-Mo — Via Maestra 36, Bersezio (on the road to the Col de Larche)
- Albergo Della Pace — Via Umberto I 32, Sambuco
- Locanda Fungo Reale — Fraction Airale, Valloriate (Piedmontese mushrooms — an institution)
The Stura valley — whitewater and mountain biking
The Stura di Demonte rises at the Col de Larche — Colle della Maddalena — and offers a great playground for river enthusiasts. Our friend Miki at KE Rafting offers rafting runs here in a superb alpine setting.
The Gardetta plateau is an environmental and tourist gem of the Cuneo province, ideal for a wide range of outdoor activities. A crossroads of mountain cycling trails, it links the Stura, Grana and Maira valleys at over 2 400 m. The Via della Gardetta route is entirely unsurfaced — a treat for three days of mountain biking. To find out more about the valley, visit the Unione Montana Valle Stura page and the Visit Stura website.
Col de Larche — the hanging lakes of the upper Ubaye
Discovering the hanging lakes
Crossing the Col de Larche, it's the Ubayette that accompanies the descent into the valley. Between the pass and Les Gleizolles — where the Ubayette meets the Ubaye — many magnificent hikes lead to the finest mountain lakes in the Ubaye.
The Vallon du Lauzanier and its succession of hanging lakes can be explored independently or with a mountain guide. Easy walks for families — the marmots wander between your feet.
For the Lacs de l'Oronaye et du Roburent, a magnificent high-altitude loop between France and Italy passes five lakes along glacial valleys. Ideal in summer heat. Hiking account for independent walkers, or with a mountain guide. A quiet little campsite at the entrance to the valley: Le Camping des Marmottes.
Along the banks of the Ubayette
Continuing the descent from the pass towards the confluence of the Ubaye and Ubayette, a gourmet stop is in order at Mare e Monti. Located in the heart of the village of Meyronnes in the Val d'Oronaye, this restaurant-bar-bakery serves Italian cuisine made with fresh local produce. Antipasti, pasta, charcuterie boards, organic bread and homemade pastries — a foretaste of neighbouring Piedmont.
At the confluence of the Ubaye and Ubayette, the Saint-Paul-Saloon marks the crossroads. A warm drinks-and-snacks stop, ideal before heading up to the upper valley or continuing towards Barcelonnette.
Saint-Paul-sur-Ubaye and the Upper Valley
From the confluence, head up the Ubaye towards the magnificent mountain hamlets of the upper valley. The first is Saint-Paul-sur-Ubaye, then La Petite and Grande-Serenne. In the latter, look up at the strangely tilted bell tower: the spire shifted during the earthquake of 5 April 1959, magnitude 5.5.
Two options then present themselves. The first: cross the impressive Pont du Châtelet, thrown 110 m above the Ubaye gorge, to reach the village of Fouillouse — starting point for wonderful hikes around the Brec-de-Chambeyron (3 389 m). The second: continue along the Ubaye to the villages of Maljasset and Maurin, the end of the road.
In Saint-Paul-sur-Ubaye, Carole's quirky accommodations are one of the many enchanting surprises the upper Ubaye has in store.
Ideas for the upper Ubaye
- Aquatic hiking with Lou and Rémi — an original way to discover the torrents of the high mountains.
- La fromagerie-chèvrerie de la Grande-Serenne — Christiane's goat's cheeses, a compulsory stop.
- Gîte, meals and mountain activities at Odilon's in Fouillouse.
- Maison d'hôtes Les Zélés in Maljasset, at 1 900 m altitude.
Leaving from Maljasset, a curiosity not to be missed: the former green marble quarry of Maurin, worked until 1950. This marble was used in the Opéra de Lyon, Napoleon's tomb at Les Invalides, the Opéra Garnier, the columns of the Basilique de Fourvière, and those of Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde in Marseille.
La Condamine-Châtelard
At the confluence of the Ubaye and the Parpaillon, La Condamine-Châtelard has a wonderful traditional bakery-pâtisserie at Prost's, at the entrance to the village, as well as the fromagerie des 3 Alpes. Above, the road to the Saint-Anne ski resort leads to the Parpaillon valley. Its tunnel at 2 637 m — 520 m long, accessible on foot, by mountain bike or trail motorbike — opens onto the Hautes-Alpes to reach Crévoux.
La Forteresse de Tournoux can be visited by appointment (Esplanade du Fort-de-Tournoux, tel. 06 75 15 39 74). A rare piece of military heritage, clinging to the cliff, overlooking the valley since the 16th century.
Jausiers, gateway to the Mercantour
A picturesque village at the foot of the Col de la Bonnette-Restefond (2 715 m, the highest paved mountain pass in Europe), Jausiers gives access to the Tinée valley and the Isola 2000 ski resort. Not to be missed: the Château des Magnans, a neo-Gothic hotel reminiscent of Neuschwanstein Castle — built by a Barcelonnette emigrant on his return from the Americas.
Good addresses in Jausiers:
- Hotel-restaurant Le Sans-Souci — family atmosphere and home cooking.
- Family restaurant La Sonnaille.
- Leather goods by Chevaleyre chez Solenn.
- The Maison de Pays de l'Ubaye — a showcase of local craftspeople and produce.
- Café La Pivoine Givrée — a gourmet coffee spot in Jausiers.
- Hike to Lac des Sagnes: a breathtaking setting, starting from the Col de la Bonnette road.
Barcelonnette — Mexico in the heart of the Alps
Barcelonnette is the heart of the valley, perfectly placed to explore in every direction. Its singular history is intimately tied to the emigrants who, in the 19th century, left to seek their fortune in Mexico — the famous Barcelonnettes — before returning to build magnificent villas in their home valley. To explore this fascinating chapter in history, our article on the Mexican adventure.
Every August, the fête mexicaine celebrates this unique heritage with parades, concerts and colourful events.
Restaurants
- L'Adelita — Mexican restaurant run by Fabienne and Alexandre. Many authentic dishes, an unmissable institution.
- La Source de Jade — homemade Asian cuisine. 1 Rue du Canal, tel. 04 92 81 06 07.
- L'Arlequin — local produce, excellent ethos. 15 Rue du Moulin, tel. 04 86 72 96 55.
- Pâtisserie Maison Padiou — the fruit tarts.
- Pâtisserie Boeri — the macarons.
- Market on Wednesday and Saturday mornings.
Accommodation
- Le Grand Hôtel — in the heart of Barcelonnette.
- Hôtel de la Placette — town centre.
- Jungle Lodge — a night in the trees, quirky and well-appointed accommodation.
Activities
- Jungle Park — a host of activities for adults and children, created by Olivier Jean and Denis Capel.
- Rando Passion — mountain biking, hiking and themed activities around the mountains and valley. A friendly team led by Éric and Chantal Bonaglia.
- Ubaye Parapente — an institution founded by Matthieu de Quillacq, now run by Olivier's dynamic team.
- Jungle Kid at the Siguret water park — perfect for young children.
The mountain pass road and Pra-Loup
Col de la Cayolle, our favourite
Wild on both sides, the Col de la Cayolle runs alongside a river dear to us: the Bachelard, which we occasionally raft. At the foot of the pass on the Ubaye side, in the village of Uvernet-Fours: the Chomp-Chomp Food Truck on the banks of the Bachelard — excellent Pulled Pork Burgers and Focaccia alla porchetta. The Auberge du Bachelard offers traditional family cuisine.
On the other side, at Estenc, the agritourism gîte La Ferme des Louiqs run by Gudrun and Daniel. And the Refuge de la Cayolle — an excellent address with Italian and Corsican accents.
Fine hikes from the pass: Col de la Petite Cayolle (2 657 m), Lac de la Petite Cayolle (2 590 m), Lac des Garrets (2 638 m).
Continuing on the far side from Estenc, the road descends to Guillaumes on the Var. Downstream, the Gorges de Daluis — the Nice Colorado — offer rafting on the upper Var.
Col de la Cloche and Uvernet-Fours
Starting from Uvernet-Fours, the Col de la Cloche circuit (2 070 m) passes through the abandoned hamlet of Cloche and its restored chapel, before descending through a beautiful larch forest towards Baume-Longe. Famous for its ibex at the entrance to the Mercantour park, it is one of the valley's signature hikes.
Col d'Allos and Pra-Loup
The Col d'Allos gives access to the headwaters of the Verdon and its typical villages — Allos, Colmars-les-Alpes (a fortified medieval town). The La Foux-d'Allos ski resort adds to the offer in winter.
The resort of Pra-Loup, in the commune of Uvernet-Fours, offers a well-regarded summer bike park, a summer luge and a fishing hike for children at Lac de Costebelle.
The Ubaye, valley of 7 passes
The Ubaye is a mecca for cycle touring. The Club Cycliste Ubaye organises the 3 cols event every summer, open to both classic bikes and e-bikes:
- Long route: 122 km / 3 300 m of climbing. Barcelonnette (1 135 m) — Col de la Cayolle (2 326 m) — Saint-Martin-d'Entraunes — Col des Champs (2 067 m) — Colmars — Col d'Allos (2 240 m) — finish at Parc de la Sapinière. 3 feed stations, meal included.
- Short route: 59 km / 1 690 m. Barcelonnette — Col de la Cayolle — Estenc — finish at Parc de la Sapinière. 1 feed station, meal included.
In July 2024, the Tour de France passed through the Ubaye. Stage 18 linked Gap to Barcelonnette; stage 19 set off from Embrun towards Isola 2000, crossing the Cols de Vars and de la Bonette. An event that reminded the whole world of this alpine valley's beauty.
Jazz in Barcelonnette
Barcelonnette swings every July with the festival Les Enfants du Jazz. Concerts, master classes, headline acts in the Parc de la Sapinière — Marcus Miller, Al Jarreau, Ibrahim Maalouf, Selah Sue, Keziah Jones... A uniquely summery atmosphere at 1 135 m altitude.
The master class week ends with young musicians being invited to join the headline artist on stage for the finale of their show. A tradition that makes this festival much more than a simple music event.
Le Martinet — the heart of whitewater in the Ubaye
Before arriving at Le Martinet, a stop at La Chanenche distillery is a must — an enriching look at the wild fruit and timber industries in the Ubaye. Next door, the Maison du Bois de Méolans-Revel offers a demonstration and tour of the magnificent old water-powered sawmill.
In the village of Le Martinet, in the commune of Méolans-Revel, you reach the very heart of river activities. This is where the Oueds & Rios base has been welcoming guests for nearly thirty years.
This stretch of the Ubaye between Le Martinet and Le Lauzet alone ticks every box for an exceptional river run:
- A preserved wild landscape
- Around twenty renowned rapids
- Breathtaking scenery — the Séolanes massif, the Gorges du Pont Romain
- A natural flow, with no dam — a precious rarity in France
This is the start of one of France's finest classic kayak or rafting runs. In the heart of Le Martinet village, Claudine's rural gîtes for accommodation.
The Laverq valley — a suspended gem
Above the village of Le Martinet opens a magnificent hanging valley: the Laverq. Reached via the hamlets of Saint-Barthélemy and Les Clarionds, passing along the way the delicious goat's cheeses of Christiane, up to the Chapelle Saint-Antoine-de-Laverq. The Grand-Riou-de-La-Blanche makes for a peaceful hike beneath the Séolanes — ideal with children.
On the road, 20 minutes from Le Martinet, a quirky gourmet stop: l'Espère chez Laurent, open-air market cooking centred on local meat, cheese and charcuterie.
Hiking ideas in the Méolans commune:
- La Tête de Louis XVI
- Les Eaux Tortes in the Laverq valley (difficult hike)
- Le col des Terres Blanches (moderate hike)
- The Refuge de l'Estrop with Lisa's team, in a stunning setting
Accommodation on site: Gîte refuge du Laverq.
Le Lauzet-Ubaye and its lake
Further downstream, the village of Le Lauzet-Ubaye and its magnificent green lake. The Séolanes massif forms the backdrop — a landscape of remarkable serenity.
Le Relais du Lac — a Spanish-inn vibe in the Ubaye, with a landmark worth visiting: Fernand, around whom the village seems to have been built.
Accommodation and activities around the lake:
- Hotel residence La Lauzetane
- Les cabanes du domaine de l'Esperluette
- Campsite Le Noyer du Baron (cabin, tent, mobile home) on the lake shore
- Campsite Le Bois des Hoches — natural site under pine trees on the banks of the Ubaye
- Distillery and soap maker Les Mille et Sens
- Musée du Lauzet : Mountains and Men
On the lake, stand-up paddle and pedalo hire, and a peaceful atmosphere ideal for quiet contemplation. Find all paddle activities on the dedicated site paddle-lauzet-ubaye.com.
For hikers, the Sentier du Pont Romain lets you admire the Roman bridge spanning the Ubaye and the Costeplane waterfalls. By mountain bike, the Rail'On! trail follows old railway tunnels. And for canyoners, the Canyon de la Blache offers three sections of increasing difficulty, with a sporty finale in the Gorges Royales de l'Ubaye.
This is also the stretch where the Ubaye delivers its finest rafting. The Gorges du Pont Romain form the spectacular finale of the classic long run from Le Martinet — a breathtaking ending on one of France's finest rivers.
Lac de Serre-Ponçon — a taste of the seaside
The final stop on our journey: Lac de Serre-Ponçon, straddling the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence and Hautes-Alpes. France's largest man-made stretch of water offers a welcome lakeside feel after the alpine heights.
- Sud-Escapades — powerboat hire with or without a licence, wakeboard, wakesurf, water skiing, towed inflatables.
- Jungle Kid at the Siguret water park — perfect for young children.
- Camping Sunêlia La Presqu'île — lakeside.
- Restaurant Les Alisiers run by Émilie and Christophe — a delicious stop for local produce.
- Restaurant Le Moss in La Bréole — inventive and well-crafted dishes, with live music once a week in summer.
- Le Domaine du Prayet — agrotourism farm-gîte. Sauna and Nordic bath, events and wellness courses.
Worth exploring around the lake: Saint-Vincent-les-Forts, the Saint-Jean-Montclar resort, Seyne-les-Alpes, La Bréole.
We hope this selection will inspire you to discover — or rediscover — this surprising Ubaye valley. You're now all set to plan your next ten adventures!
Also read: The Ubaye river — our playground
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